Perfume
The word perfume used today derives from
the Latin "per fumum", meaning through smoke.
Perfumery, or the art of making perfumes, began in ancient
Mesopotamia and Egypt and was further refined by the Romans and
Persians. Although perfume and perfumery also existed in India, much
of its fragrances are incense based. The earliest distillation of
Attar was mentioned in the Hindu Ayurvedic text Charaka Samhita. The
Harshacharita, written in 7th century A.D. in Northern India
mentions use of fragrant agarwood oil.
The world's first recorded chemist is considered
to be a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker who was mentioned in a
cuneiform tablet from the second millennium BC in Mesopotamia. She
distilled flowers, oil, and calamus with other aromatics then
filtered and put them back in the still several times.
Recently, archaeologists have uncovered what are
believed to be the world's oldest perfumes in Pyrgos, Cyprus. The
perfumes date back more than 4,000 years. The perfumes were
discovered in an ancient perfumery. At least 60 stills, mixing
bowls, funnels and perfume bottles were found in the
43,000-square-foot (4,000 m2) factory. In ancient times
people used herbs and spices, like almond, coriander, myrtle,
conifer resin, bergamot, as well as flowers.
The Arabian chemist, Al-Kindi (Alkindus), wrote in
the 9th century a book on perfumes which he named Book of the
Chemistry of Perfume and Distillations. It contained more than a
hundred recipes for fragrant oils, salves, aromatic waters and
substitutes or imitations of costly drugs. The book also described
107 methods and recipes for perfume-making, and even the perfume
making equipment, like the alembic, still bears its Arabic name.
The Persian Muslim doctor and chemist Avicenna
(also known as Ibn Sina) introduced the process of extracting oils
from flowers by means of distillation, the procedure most commonly
used today. He first experimented with the rose. Until his
discovery, liquid perfumes were mixtures of oil and crushed herbs or
petals, which made a strong blend. Rose water was more delicate, and
immediately became popular. Both of the raw ingredients and
distillation technology significantly influenced western perfumery
and scientific developments, particularly chemistry.
